2012
FIGHTING GULLY ROAD ‘Aquila’ 2010
King Valley & Alpine Valley, Victoria
RRP $24
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Wine Reviews November
15 Nov2011
CASTAGNA Allegro Rosé 2009
Beechworth, Victoria
RRP $34
“They’ve done studies, you know. 60% of the time…it works every time“
That may be a quote that I stole from the movie Anchorman – The Legend of Ron Burgundy [2004], but such a highly intelligent saying could also be applied to the wine style rosé. We are in the midst of a Rosé revolution that hosts events through the month of November. However according to my standards of rosé appreciation and ridiculously good mathematical calculations, it is actually a beverage that has the capacity to be consumed during two thirds of the year, if not more. Melbourne weather permitting, I am referring to the period from the end of October to the start of May. “60% of the time…it works every time”.
On November 10th, I celebrated the beginning of the revolution with this rosé from Castagna called Allegro, which easily confirmed its position as one of Australia’s top rosé wines. What can I say? It is difficult to dislike such a pretty peach, salmon, blush hued wine. Well actually no. That was a blatant lie because if the wine did not perform and do wondrous things in my mouth then I would not speak of it so highly.
Fear not, Julian Castagna has created a wicked rosé mistress of layered complexity like no other.
She beckons you forth by opening with a perfume of sweet pink musk followed by a gentle puff of smoke. Soft and playful on the palate, she kisses you with sugared almond lips dusted with vanilla icing. Texturally, Madame rosé has got curves in all the right places and in the right proportions with that final flavoured flush of rose water pinning you down for another glass. She brings an impressive 14.00% alcohol to the table, but with such a vivacious personality, it is no wonder that you are more than tempted to have a bit of a play with the alluring rosé.
Wine Reviews October
18 Oct2011
NARKOOJEE Pinot Noir 2009
Gippsland, Victoria
RRP $24
I sat there gazing at the Pinot Noir before me, which at first glance had the appearance and hue of a deep, unfiltered Burgundy.
“Won’t you take me to funkytown!“, I sung to myself.
This steers away from the more ubiquitous style of primary fruit-driven Pinot Noir that you tend to find at this price range. In fact, I’d almost dare to say that it’s a little naughty to be offering such chompy, boastfully-flavoured, savoury goodness so cheaply.
How very Mrs Robinson!
The wine tasting: Massolino wine masterclass- Rionda, Rhonda, Wanda…Eh?!
6 Sep2011
Massolino of Serralunga d'Alba
Massolino, also known as Azienda Agricola Vigna Rionda, is the name of one of the small grape grower/wine bottling families in the Serralunga valley whose business is named after their most famed and popular vineyard, Vigna Rionda. The business began with Giovanni Massolino creating the estate in 1896, followed by his son Giuseppe subsequently building the cellar a number of years later. Today, the winery is still in the hands of the Massolino family with brothers Roberto and Franco Massolino along with Giovanni Angeli acting as winemakers for the estate.
Back in August 2011, the Australian wine importers for Massolino, Bibendum Wine Co., held a long-awaited masterclass to highlight the producers various vineyards. The event was held at the gloriously spacious and sea-view aligned restaurant The Stokehouse in St Kilda. Just to heighten the opportunity to make someone green with envy, see the menu below for what delights were in store:
The well-dressed Italian representative (because there always has to be at least one good-looking Italian at these events) was none other than winemaker Giovanni Angeli. Softly spoken, but groomed within 007 standards, he acted as our amiable host along with head of Bibendum, Robert Walters.
The Tasting: Valpolicella, Amarone and the venerable Speri
2 Aug2011
A week ago on the 27th July 2011, the wonderful Sommeliers Australia association put together a delightful tasting for twenty willing Members at the old Melbourne Wine Room in St Kilda. The tasting was hosted by none other than The Wine Guide’s Dan Sims, with panel members including Speri winemaker Luca Speri, Italian wine importer Matt Paul from Trembath & Taylor and La Donna del Vino. I sat up the front voraciously anticipating the good things to come over the next two hours.
What words do you associate with an Amarone della Valpolicella wine tasting? Let me tell you: Velvety. Voluptuous. Vim. Vibrant. Va va voom! Exaggeration aside, my brain cannot ignore the urge it has to continue that alliteration of the letter ‘v’ by making reference to the script from a scene in the movie, ‘V for Vendetta’. Right here. Right now. Apologies for confusing anybody. Blame my brain.
Voila!
In view, a humble Vaudevillian Veteran, cast Vicariously as both Victim and Villain by the Vicissitudes of fate. This Visage, no mere Veneer of Vanity, is a Vestige of the Voc populi, now Vacant, Vanished. However, this Valorous Visitation of a bygone Vexation stands Vivified, and has Vowed to Vanquish these Venal and Viulent Vermin Vanguarding Vice and Vouchsafing the Violently Vicious and Voracious Violation of Volition!
The only Verdict is Vengeance- a Vendetta, held as a Votice- not in Vain, for the Value and Veracity of such shall one day Vindicate the Vigilant and the Virtuous. [Chuckling].
Verily, this Vichyssoise of Verbiage Veers most Verbose, so let me simply add that it’s my Very good honor to meet you, and you may call me V.
As spoken in V’s introduction to Evey – V for Vendetta (2006)
Enough of that. Now to the details of the tasting!
Wine Reviews July
12 Jul2011
SHIRVINGTON Cabernet Sauvignon
McLaren Vale, South Australia
RRP $55-$65
Hmm…that name…Shirvington. Doesn’t it make you think of the Australian track athlete Matt Shirvington and the package that was so infamously publicized on television years ago?
Or was that just me getting a little excited? Anyway, the joke beckons, but I will save that until last.
The Wines of Valpolicella – Fratelli Speri
21 Jun2011
Fratelli Speri is located in the the wine zone known famously as Valpolicella within the Veneto region of north-east Italy. It lies within the province of Verona. Working back that’s the winery (Speri), then the zone (Valpolicella), then the province (Verona), then the region (Veneto). Don’t worry, I get confused too. They make a number of wine styles including Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto (all to be explained later). There is also a casual review of their Speri Valpolicella Vigneto La Roverina DOC 2008 to finish things off. But firstly, here is an excerpt by the Speri family that I enjoyed.
From left: Gianpaolo, Gianpietro, Luca, Chiara & Alberto
Wine Reviews June
2 Jun2011
CHALMERS Nero d’Avola 2009
Mildura, Victoria
RRP $29
This is a wine of mid-burgundy hue with dusty pink tones that made me seriously want to watch ‘Pretty in Pink’ because I kept picturing Molly Ringwald’s character fabulously suited up for her prom in that garish pink dress…you remember the one!
Wine Reviews May
3 May2011
GIACONDA Aeolia Roussanne 2008
Beechworth, Victoria
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Photograph courtesy of the Wine House
- Not everybody is privy to the fact that Rick Kinzbrunner of Giaconda has a gorgeous 100% Roussanne wine up his sleeves that he has been making since 2000. Some would say it’s a bit old-school, then rub their hands together as they wait in anticipation for the arrival of his ‘should be interesting‘ Nebbiolo.
- Sorry, sidetracked for a moment there!
Back to this wine in particular, it is made from the Nantua and Warner vineyards in Beechworth and called Aeolia. That’s right, Ae-o-li-a. I’m not referring to the pigmented aureole around your nipple nor the Italian garlic mayonnaise aioli. Aeolia is a wine that can go the distance (such as the superb vintage of 2005 Aeolia), or is heavenly in its youth (like the focused 2008 Aeolia). Core to both wines is a heady perfume of honeydew and cashews, a hint of exotic spice, followed with a mouth-filling, tropical fruit, minerally, textural palate that continues to surprise with its length. Who ever thought Roussanne could be so good looking on its own!
Wine Reviews March
18 Mar2011
WOODLANDS ‘Chloe’ Reserve Chardonnay 2007
Margaret River, Western Australia
There is a definite reason why, like acclaimed wine critics, I have decided to praise this wine so highly: Woodlands have performed a triumphant feat with this sumptuous Reserve Chardonnay! The striking base of white stone fruits and grapefruit acidity was given real drive and length using the battonage technique, which has then added the sublime textural element and persistency in flavour that I am ultimately bragging about. This is one Margaret River Chardonnay that not only makes you sigh, but also makes you sing.
JEANNERET Big Fine Girl Riesling 2008
Clare Valley, South Australia
The Question: What do you get when you cross a Swiss chemist with the Clare Valley, a love of grapes and a beautiful dream?
The Answer: The beginning of Jeanneret where the son, Ben Jeanneret, now runs this kooky business. I introduce to you one of his offspring, the Big Fine Girl Riesling from the 2008 vintage. Appropriately named because she speaks from the more luscious side of the Riesling family with bucketloads of juicy apple and lime fruits with an acidity described as ‘refreshing and bracing as a mountain stream’. Now this is wine with personality!
NGERINGA Chardonnay 2008
Mt Barker, South Australia
“Our vineyards are the essence of our wine and the love of what we do, and biodynamics is the path along which we allow their character to shine.” Erinn and Janet at Ngeringa Vineyards wear their poetic hearts on their sleeves and put their passion into the vines and the resultant wines. The minimalist approach leads to no forced additions to the grape juice and it is wild yeast fermented. It is showing excellent intensity of flavour with tart grapefruit, white stone fruits and a thrust of spicy oak. After two years in bottle, this wine is now in perfect harmony. Drink now or in the next couple of years.
SORRENBERG Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2010
Beechworth, Victoria
Here is the latest release from the man whom in my eyes can do no wrong by stylistically breaking every rule in the Australian wine book. This is a rocking blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon with the former getting a bold eight hours of skin contact before pressing! This, along with the large barrel fermentation and extended lees contact, has assisted in giving this wine real mid-palate drive and weight complemented by the naturally refreshing, tight acidity. The finish is strong and with such unique structure and overall finesse, this wine exudes Sorrenberg’s character in bucket loads.
Wine Reviews April
18 Mar2011
TEDESCHI Soave Classico DOC 2009
Veneto, Italy
Here we have the perfect aperitif, or should I say, aperitivo, like the Italians? Well…when in Rome! This is made from the Garganega grape variety in the hills of the classic Soave zone of the north-eastern Veneto region of Italy. It is the sort of wine to begin your lunch or evening with as it is beautifully rounded with a green apple crispness, good body and juicy texture with a delightful hint of almonds to the finish. Fruity yet complex plus agreeably low in alcohol, this is a wine that will not cause complaints! Ideally paired with aperativo foods, fish and white meats.
RRP $27.00
CULLEN Mangan Petit Verdot Malbec Merlot 2009
Margaret River, WA, Australia
Ahh blends. They’re a polarising bunch. Under the right winemaking skill varietal blends work so that the flavours and grape characteristics intertwine harmoniously. This is a shining example made from a very complimentary blend of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot. Hello to a nose of blood plums with hints of mulberry and a sprinkling of pepper. The palate has fantastic fruit concentration and body but overall is medium-weighted, which is reflected in the lower alcohol content of 12.5%. Being Cullen means being biodynamic, which means these wines are not overworked and express themselves as they should be. There’s no pretentiousness here. This is top quality wine from one of the wine community’s most respected Australian producers.
RRP $38.00
KELLERMEISTER Dry Grown Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, SA, Australia
Ahh Kellermeister, you’ve done it again. This is such a seemingly black-fruited wine due to the Shiraz fruit coming from some of the oldest vines in the Barossa Valley. Lifted aromas of dark cherry, mulberry and dark bitter chocolate greet you then gently hint to aniseed, complex savoury aromas and a good touch of smoky, cedary oak. It is velvety and voluptuous in mouthfeel, politely leaving a crux of blackberry, liquorice and spice flavours as the lingering aftertaste. Ideally complements game, beef and vintage cheeses.
RRP $34.00
Wine Reviews February
18 Feb2011
TEUSNER Riebke Shiraz 2009
Barossa Valley, SA, Australia
The Riebke is such a sterling performer which makes the consumer thankful to the gang at Teusner for continuing to make it the little affordable quaffer year after year. It is really approachable being mouthwateringly juicy, packed full of flavour and perfectly balanced from acidity through to the firm finish. Winemaker Kym Teusner has a pretty good handle on these vines and has certainly done the Riebke Brothers proud.
DI LENARDO Pinot Grigio IGT 2009
DOC Grave & DOC Aquileia, Friuli, Italy
Massimo Di Lenardo is a man of unique character…Aren’t all Italian men for that matter? :-S Regardless, his wines are consistently beautiful, harvested by hand and lovingly made. His winery is located in the Friuli region in the north-east of Italy, in vineyards renowned for producing world-class Pinot Grigio. The palate is juicy with plenty of pear, a twist of lemon and a hint of cashew and a bouquet of Acacia florals, whilst the finish is dry, the acid streamlined and an elegant lingering flavour reminiscent of pear syrup and quince peel. Sure, this is a wine made for an export market, but it accurately targets and pleases Pinot Grigio lovers of a more textural and pear-fruited style.
TYRRELL’S Vat 1 Semillon 2000
Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia
I can’t rave enough about this wine. After doing a vertical tasting of Vat 1 Semillons at my work, I was rapped to find out that patience had paid off. The 2000 has gallantly ridden out of its adolescent maturation phase and now boasts gorgeous toasty notes, cashew and hints of beeswax with a still beautifully textured and restrained palate. The finish is long with sumptuous honeydew notes and leaves you asking your host, “Please sir, I want some more!”
Cheese Match: Try this wine with a soft Brie, perhaps combined in a gorgeous roasted pear, brie and rocket salad
Wine Reviews January
18 Jan2011
SORRENBERG Gamay 2009
Beechworth, Victoria
Sorrenberg’s Barry Morey’s humble offerings earn praise year after year, whether it is for his Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon, or his stunning Chardonnay which I tend to pine for every so often. His latest Gamay continues this strong tradition. Intriguingly it contains a small portion of Pinot Noir to combine two French styles of Beaujolais and Burgundy. The result is seamless but remarkably distinct with red berry aromatics tied to a hint of fresh cherry. For something made in the depths of a cellar underneath Barry’s house, the wine is a true delight said by those who know all about it.
S C PANNELL Nebbiolo 2007
Adelaide Hills, South Australia
In January 2011 Steve Pannell spread the Aussie love with his ‘All for One Wine’ campaign promoting Australian wines. With so many grape variety options here in Australia and to align myself for a moment with SC Pannell’s thinking, why would I venture overseas just for the day?! (Rheotorical question DO NOT ANSWER!).
OK, so be warned. I am a self-confessed Neb-head. For a variety that some would say is more easily misunderstood than appreciated, I am an ardent advocate of the Nebbiolo grape. The 2007 is classic in style from the autumnal colour, to the delicate red fruits that are beginning to edge into a more savoury tone. The picture is completed by the wonderfully high acidity that is balanced by its lashing of tannin and palate weight. Steve Pannell really is an exceptional producer of this complex variety. Share the Aussie love if you wish.
VINEA MARSON Sangiovese 2008
Heathcote, Victoria
“When the world seems to shine like you’ve had too much wine…” – The dear Dean Martin
As the Best Italian Varietal for the 2011 Good Wine Guide, Mario Marson’s most recent vintage provides the perfect template from which to benchmark great Aussie Sangiovese. A backbone of freshly picked cherries with hints of bramble and a lick of vanilla are complemented by a taut acidity, firm tannic kick and almond meal finish. Get on it.
GROSSET Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Clare Valley, South Australia
For their nineteenth vintage, Grosset has continued to drive for distinction, undoubtedly (and enviably) having one of the best styles in the country. Made from 60% Clare Valley Semillon and 40% Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc, this blend never disappoints in its flavoursome offering of tight citrus and pristine stone fruit perfumes. The overall lemon core provides the generous length and mouthwatering texture. A wine of this intensity will further evolve in the glass so don’t drink it too quickly!
Wine Reviews December
10 Dec2010
BRESS GOLD CHOOK CHARDONNAY 2008
The Gold Chook theme is Adam Mark’s ode to things made traditionally with artisan care and minimal intervention. I could go into his love for breeding French chickens, but that would just detour us from focusing on this stunning wine. The fruit comes from the Macedon Ranges and so classically you get a tight wine packed full of grapefruit and citrus flavours whilst the lees stirring and subtle use of oak give it a distinct savoury richness. A beautifully made, hand-crafted wine representing some of the best in cool-climate Chardonnay that Victoria has to offer.
BRESS Gold Chook Chardonnay 2008
Macedon Ranges, Victoria
The Gold Chook theme is Adam Mark’s ode to things made traditionally with artisan care and minimal intervention. I could go into his love for breeding French chickens, but that would just detour us from focusing on this stunning wine. The fruit comes from the Macedon Ranges and so classically you get a tight wine packed full of grapefruit and citrus flavours whilst the lees stirring and subtle use of oak give it a distinct savoury richness. A beautifully made, hand-crafted wine representing some of the best in cool-climate Chardonnay that Victoria has to offer.
GALLI ESTATE Artigiano Sangiovese 2008
Heathcote, Victoria
Sangiovese is one of those success-story varieties and has come a long way in Australia. Our vineyards are becoming more mature with each passing vintage and thus producing richer, more flavoursome and structured fruit. Galli Estate have provided a much appreciated hand in improving the standard of Australian Sangiovese for us consumers. Their current 2008 vintage is drinking fabulously with supple cherry compote and plum flavours lying against some chalky tannins. I had it with pappardelle pasta in a rich tomato sugo and a little part of me died and went to heaven. So sit back, relax, and savour the work of the Artigiano!
Wine Reviews November
18 Nov2010
FRANKLAND ESTATE Isolation Ridge Riesling 2010
Frankland River, Western Australia
The hardworking team at Frankland Estate have been showcasing the best from this prime vineyard site at Isolation Ridge, which sits on an ironstone ridge with ancient duplex soils of gravel and loam. Not only does it grow their stunning Isolation Ridge Shiraz, but it is also home to their dry-grown vines that are consistently producing a beautiful Riesling. There are graceful floral notes that then pull you into its juicy citrus palate and distinctly spicy ironstone minerality. An absolute cracker from these guys, and one with the bonus potential to age just as distinguishingly.
PUNTERS CORNER Spartacus Reserve Shiraz 2002
Coonawarra, South Australia
Well we all got a bit excited this week at my work when we decided to pull the almighty Spartacus from out of the cellar! It collected a number of accolades back in the day when it was first released, promising the prospect of ageing beautifully. Do you know what? It is still a commanding wine. There is an unmissable dense blackberry and spice core but the tannins have now smoothed to provide a more refined and delicate finish. I’m sure there’d be plenty of people willing to be a slave to such a stellar wine…
Note: You have failed if you did not get the Spartacus reference there…
La Donna del Vino
"'Just living is not enough,' said the butterfly. 'One must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower.'" - Hans Christian Andersen
La Donna del Vino 