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Wine Reviews February
14 Feb2012
FIGHTING GULLY ROAD ‘Aquila’ 2010
King Valley & Alpine Valley, Victoria
RRP $24
Wine Reviews May
3 May2011
GIACONDA Aeolia Roussanne 2008
Beechworth, Victoria
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Photograph courtesy of the Wine House
- Not everybody is privy to the fact that Rick Kinzbrunner of Giaconda has a gorgeous 100% Roussanne wine up his sleeves that he has been making since 2000. Some would say it’s a bit old-school, then rub their hands together as they wait in anticipation for the arrival of his ‘should be interesting‘ Nebbiolo.
- Sorry, sidetracked for a moment there!
Back to this wine in particular, it is made from the Nantua and Warner vineyards in Beechworth and called Aeolia. That’s right, Ae-o-li-a. I’m not referring to the pigmented aureole around your nipple nor the Italian garlic mayonnaise aioli. Aeolia is a wine that can go the distance (such as the superb vintage of 2005 Aeolia), or is heavenly in its youth (like the focused 2008 Aeolia). Core to both wines is a heady perfume of honeydew and cashews, a hint of exotic spice, followed with a mouth-filling, tropical fruit, minerally, textural palate that continues to surprise with its length. Who ever thought Roussanne could be so good looking on its own!
Wine Reviews January
18 Jan2011
SORRENBERG Gamay 2009
Beechworth, Victoria
Sorrenberg’s Barry Morey’s humble offerings earn praise year after year, whether it is for his Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon, or his stunning Chardonnay which I tend to pine for every so often. His latest Gamay continues this strong tradition. Intriguingly it contains a small portion of Pinot Noir to combine two French styles of Beaujolais and Burgundy. The result is seamless but remarkably distinct with red berry aromatics tied to a hint of fresh cherry. For something made in the depths of a cellar underneath Barry’s house, the wine is a true delight said by those who know all about it.
S C PANNELL Nebbiolo 2007
Adelaide Hills, South Australia
In January 2011 Steve Pannell spread the Aussie love with his ‘All for One Wine’ campaign promoting Australian wines. With so many grape variety options here in Australia and to align myself for a moment with SC Pannell’s thinking, why would I venture overseas just for the day?! (Rheotorical question DO NOT ANSWER!).
OK, so be warned. I am a self-confessed Neb-head. For a variety that some would say is more easily misunderstood than appreciated, I am an ardent advocate of the Nebbiolo grape. The 2007 is classic in style from the autumnal colour, to the delicate red fruits that are beginning to edge into a more savoury tone. The picture is completed by the wonderfully high acidity that is balanced by its lashing of tannin and palate weight. Steve Pannell really is an exceptional producer of this complex variety. Share the Aussie love if you wish.
VINEA MARSON Sangiovese 2008
Heathcote, Victoria
“When the world seems to shine like you’ve had too much wine…” – The dear Dean Martin
As the Best Italian Varietal for the 2011 Good Wine Guide, Mario Marson’s most recent vintage provides the perfect template from which to benchmark great Aussie Sangiovese. A backbone of freshly picked cherries with hints of bramble and a lick of vanilla are complemented by a taut acidity, firm tannic kick and almond meal finish. Get on it.
GROSSET Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Clare Valley, South Australia
For their nineteenth vintage, Grosset has continued to drive for distinction, undoubtedly (and enviably) having one of the best styles in the country. Made from 60% Clare Valley Semillon and 40% Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc, this blend never disappoints in its flavoursome offering of tight citrus and pristine stone fruit perfumes. The overall lemon core provides the generous length and mouthwatering texture. A wine of this intensity will further evolve in the glass so don’t drink it too quickly!
Wine Reviews December
10 Dec2010
BRESS GOLD CHOOK CHARDONNAY 2008
The Gold Chook theme is Adam Mark’s ode to things made traditionally with artisan care and minimal intervention. I could go into his love for breeding French chickens, but that would just detour us from focusing on this stunning wine. The fruit comes from the Macedon Ranges and so classically you get a tight wine packed full of grapefruit and citrus flavours whilst the lees stirring and subtle use of oak give it a distinct savoury richness. A beautifully made, hand-crafted wine representing some of the best in cool-climate Chardonnay that Victoria has to offer.
BRESS Gold Chook Chardonnay 2008
Macedon Ranges, Victoria
The Gold Chook theme is Adam Mark’s ode to things made traditionally with artisan care and minimal intervention. I could go into his love for breeding French chickens, but that would just detour us from focusing on this stunning wine. The fruit comes from the Macedon Ranges and so classically you get a tight wine packed full of grapefruit and citrus flavours whilst the lees stirring and subtle use of oak give it a distinct savoury richness. A beautifully made, hand-crafted wine representing some of the best in cool-climate Chardonnay that Victoria has to offer.
GALLI ESTATE Artigiano Sangiovese 2008
Heathcote, Victoria
Sangiovese is one of those success-story varieties and has come a long way in Australia. Our vineyards are becoming more mature with each passing vintage and thus producing richer, more flavoursome and structured fruit. Galli Estate have provided a much appreciated hand in improving the standard of Australian Sangiovese for us consumers. Their current 2008 vintage is drinking fabulously with supple cherry compote and plum flavours lying against some chalky tannins. I had it with pappardelle pasta in a rich tomato sugo and a little part of me died and went to heaven. So sit back, relax, and savour the work of the Artigiano!
La Donna del Vino
"'Just living is not enough,' said the butterfly. 'One must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower.'" - Hans Christian Andersen
La Donna del Vino 