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Wine Reviews May
19 May2015
UNICO ZELO Dolcetto ‘Cherry Fields’ 2014
Clare Valley & Adelaide Hills, South Australia
RRP $23
I first came across winemaker Brendan Carter when he was still a student back in 2011. We crossed paths as Italian wine enthusiasts entered into a scholarship for that particular topic. Brendan went on to Dux the course and his prize meant he was able to travel to Italy and explore the exciting varieties the country has to offer. In the following years, Brendan has since put these experiences to their best use with the launch of his own wine label called Unico Zelo run alongside his wife Laura.
Dolcetto is recognized in Italy as a delicious medium-bodied red variety not to be taken too seriously and is suitable for everyday grazing. In fact the back of the label suggests you have this wine when you find yourself ‘eating with your hands’. The Unico Zelo example fits into a similar mould as the Italian verison with a wild ferment and maturation in old oak that optimizes the fruit profile. The nose opens with aromas of fresh black cherries, cola and a hint of vanilla. The palate is a little more liqueured cherries in flavour and shows a delicacy in its texture and balance with its refreshing acidity. My only hesitation with Unico Zelo is that it lacked the tannic presence to slow me down. That bottle disappeared all too quickly.
Stockist: Check Blackhearts & Sparrows stores (all) or be first when the new vintage comes out around October.
Wine Reviews November
13 Nov2012
Olivers Taranga Fiano, Pikes Premio Sangiovese, Freeman Corvina Secco
I recently spent a week up in the sun-drenched town of Mildura as an associate judge for the Australian Alternative Varietal Wine Show. In the lead up I found myself embracing all things alternative, delicious and interesting.
Wine Reviews November
15 Nov2011
CASTAGNA Allegro Rosé 2009
Beechworth, Victoria
RRP $34
“They’ve done studies, you know. 60% of the time…it works every time“
That may be a quote that I stole from the movie Anchorman – The Legend of Ron Burgundy [2004], but such a highly intelligent saying could also be applied to the wine style rosé. We are in the midst of a Rosé revolution that hosts events through the month of November. However according to my standards of rosé appreciation and ridiculously good mathematical calculations, it is actually a beverage that has the capacity to be consumed during two thirds of the year, if not more. Melbourne weather permitting, I am referring to the period from the end of October to the start of May. “60% of the time…it works every time”.
On November 10th, I celebrated the beginning of the revolution with this rosé from Castagna called Allegro, which easily confirmed its position as one of Australia’s top rosé wines. What can I say? It is difficult to dislike such a pretty peach, salmon, blush hued wine. Well actually no. That was a blatant lie because if the wine did not perform and do wondrous things in my mouth then I would not speak of it so highly.
Fear not, Julian Castagna has created a wicked rosé mistress of layered complexity like no other.
She beckons you forth by opening with a perfume of sweet pink musk followed by a gentle puff of smoke. Soft and playful on the palate, she kisses you with sugared almond lips dusted with vanilla icing. Texturally, Madame rosé has got curves in all the right places and in the right proportions with that final flavoured flush of rose water pinning you down for another glass. She brings an impressive 14.00% alcohol to the table, but with such a vivacious personality, it is no wonder that you are more than tempted to have a bit of a play with the alluring rosé.
Wine Reviews June
2 Jun2011
CHALMERS Nero d’Avola 2009
Mildura, Victoria
RRP $29
This is a wine of mid-burgundy hue with dusty pink tones that made me seriously want to watch ‘Pretty in Pink’ because I kept picturing Molly Ringwald’s character fabulously suited up for her prom in that garish pink dress…you remember the one!
Wine Reviews March
18 Mar2011
WOODLANDS ‘Chloe’ Reserve Chardonnay 2007
Margaret River, Western Australia
There is a definite reason why, like acclaimed wine critics, I have decided to praise this wine so highly: Woodlands have performed a triumphant feat with this sumptuous Reserve Chardonnay! The striking base of white stone fruits and grapefruit acidity was given real drive and length using the battonage technique, which has then added the sublime textural element and persistency in flavour that I am ultimately bragging about. This is one Margaret River Chardonnay that not only makes you sigh, but also makes you sing.
JEANNERET Big Fine Girl Riesling 2008
Clare Valley, South Australia
The Question: What do you get when you cross a Swiss chemist with the Clare Valley, a love of grapes and a beautiful dream?
The Answer: The beginning of Jeanneret where the son, Ben Jeanneret, now runs this kooky business. I introduce to you one of his offspring, the Big Fine Girl Riesling from the 2008 vintage. Appropriately named because she speaks from the more luscious side of the Riesling family with bucketloads of juicy apple and lime fruits with an acidity described as ‘refreshing and bracing as a mountain stream’. Now this is wine with personality!
NGERINGA Chardonnay 2008
Mt Barker, South Australia
“Our vineyards are the essence of our wine and the love of what we do, and biodynamics is the path along which we allow their character to shine.” Erinn and Janet at Ngeringa Vineyards wear their poetic hearts on their sleeves and put their passion into the vines and the resultant wines. The minimalist approach leads to no forced additions to the grape juice and it is wild yeast fermented. It is showing excellent intensity of flavour with tart grapefruit, white stone fruits and a thrust of spicy oak. After two years in bottle, this wine is now in perfect harmony. Drink now or in the next couple of years.
SORRENBERG Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2010
Beechworth, Victoria
Here is the latest release from the man whom in my eyes can do no wrong by stylistically breaking every rule in the Australian wine book. This is a rocking blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon with the former getting a bold eight hours of skin contact before pressing! This, along with the large barrel fermentation and extended lees contact, has assisted in giving this wine real mid-palate drive and weight complemented by the naturally refreshing, tight acidity. The finish is strong and with such unique structure and overall finesse, this wine exudes Sorrenberg’s character in bucket loads.
Wine Reviews January
18 Jan2011
SORRENBERG Gamay 2009
Beechworth, Victoria
Sorrenberg’s Barry Morey’s humble offerings earn praise year after year, whether it is for his Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon, or his stunning Chardonnay which I tend to pine for every so often. His latest Gamay continues this strong tradition. Intriguingly it contains a small portion of Pinot Noir to combine two French styles of Beaujolais and Burgundy. The result is seamless but remarkably distinct with red berry aromatics tied to a hint of fresh cherry. For something made in the depths of a cellar underneath Barry’s house, the wine is a true delight said by those who know all about it.
S C PANNELL Nebbiolo 2007
Adelaide Hills, South Australia
In January 2011 Steve Pannell spread the Aussie love with his ‘All for One Wine’ campaign promoting Australian wines. With so many grape variety options here in Australia and to align myself for a moment with SC Pannell’s thinking, why would I venture overseas just for the day?! (Rheotorical question DO NOT ANSWER!).
OK, so be warned. I am a self-confessed Neb-head. For a variety that some would say is more easily misunderstood than appreciated, I am an ardent advocate of the Nebbiolo grape. The 2007 is classic in style from the autumnal colour, to the delicate red fruits that are beginning to edge into a more savoury tone. The picture is completed by the wonderfully high acidity that is balanced by its lashing of tannin and palate weight. Steve Pannell really is an exceptional producer of this complex variety. Share the Aussie love if you wish.
VINEA MARSON Sangiovese 2008
Heathcote, Victoria
“When the world seems to shine like you’ve had too much wine…” – The dear Dean Martin
As the Best Italian Varietal for the 2011 Good Wine Guide, Mario Marson’s most recent vintage provides the perfect template from which to benchmark great Aussie Sangiovese. A backbone of freshly picked cherries with hints of bramble and a lick of vanilla are complemented by a taut acidity, firm tannic kick and almond meal finish. Get on it.
GROSSET Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Clare Valley, South Australia
For their nineteenth vintage, Grosset has continued to drive for distinction, undoubtedly (and enviably) having one of the best styles in the country. Made from 60% Clare Valley Semillon and 40% Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc, this blend never disappoints in its flavoursome offering of tight citrus and pristine stone fruit perfumes. The overall lemon core provides the generous length and mouthwatering texture. A wine of this intensity will further evolve in the glass so don’t drink it too quickly!
Winding our way into the Valley of Clare
13 Feb2010
Saturday and possibly our last Saturday totally free for awhile since we will begin fermenting juice as of next week. Hence I took the opportunity to not waste an opportunity to head up to the Clare Valley wine region. I initially was going to go up on my own which would have been fine, but well, a boring drive for one, and a little less exciting tasting stuff on your lonesome. Fortunately I got a text from Stuart again who wanted to go up and see the area again. Happy days.
I made pancakes for breakfast in the morning for my housemate Monica and myself then Stuart and I headed off just after 9:30am and were at our first stop by 10:30am: Taylors. Taylors is a huge winery and they have heaps of different labels and styles available but the only one that impressed was an 04 St Andrews label Cabernet Sauvignon. Moving right along. We were going to stop at O’Leary Walkers but it was closed. The Clare Valley region is made up of a number of small towns that lead up to one another along the main road. There are lots of wineries alongside the main road and it is all really well sign-posted so I think it’s great to get to and see in this one day we had. You do take turns off the main road and head up into really gum-tree/eucalyptus country, which was a real surprise for me because I had assumed the valley would be more open, rolling plains instead of this stereotypical Australian bush-scape.
We made it up to Watervale township and stopped at Crabtree Watervale Wines and got stuck talking there with the owner for an hour and a half about growing their Tempranillo vines, their crew, the size of the winery etc. They make some great wines actually but I didn’t end up buying any at this point. I was waiting for something to really appeal. Olssens was closed because the winemaker’s wife had unexpectedly passed away a month ago. I had been told to check them out by the winemakers at Henschke so it’s a shame about the circumstances. Instead we went to Kilikanoon Wines where I bought their Block Road Cabernet Sauvignon, then up to Jeanneret Wines where there was a hilarious possibly-alco character behind the cellardoor looking after twelve cats and a fat labrador. Stuart bought some ripper reds for a hefty price. Thanks goodness we can claim some of this stuff through tax.
The Wilson Vineyard
We decided to fill a hole that was emerging in our stomachs and shared a little greek-style pizza and salad before driving up through the slightly boring township of Clare and heading to Knappstein Wines where I bought their excellent single vineyard Riesling and finished off with their palate-cleansing lager that was on tasting! Our last stops were in the Polish Hill region of the Clare Valley and here we stopped at The Wilson Vineyard and I bought their 09 Riesling, then down to Pikes were I was going to work the vintage (but turned it down for Henschke) and bought their Reserve Riesling which I’ll put down, and their yummy Luccio Sangiovese wine which will be great with Italian food…mmm mmm I can imagine the pizza I’d make with that!
Pikes vineyards
The road to Pikes Wines
What a day though, the area is lovely, though a little too secluded from the sea or the city in my opinion. Anyway we got some great wines which will be enjoyed one day in the future.
La Donna del Vino
"'Just living is not enough,' said the butterfly. 'One must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower.'" - Hans Christian Andersen
La Donna del Vino 