The Tasting: Valpolicella, Amarone and the venerable Speri
2 AugA week ago on the 27th July 2011, the wonderful Sommeliers Australia association put together a delightful tasting for twenty willing Members at the old Melbourne Wine Room in St Kilda. The tasting was hosted by none other than The Wine Guide’s Dan Sims, with panel members including Speri winemaker Luca Speri, Italian wine importer Matt Paul from Trembath & Taylor and La Donna del Vino. I sat up the front voraciously anticipating the good things to come over the next two hours.
What words do you associate with an Amarone della Valpolicella wine tasting? Let me tell you: Velvety. Voluptuous. Vim. Vibrant. Va va voom! Exaggeration aside, my brain cannot ignore the urge it has to continue that alliteration of the letter ‘v’ by making reference to the script from a scene in the movie, ‘V for Vendetta’. Right here. Right now. Apologies for confusing anybody. Blame my brain.
Voila!
In view, a humble Vaudevillian Veteran, cast Vicariously as both Victim and Villain by the Vicissitudes of fate. This Visage, no mere Veneer of Vanity, is a Vestige of the Voc populi, now Vacant, Vanished. However, this Valorous Visitation of a bygone Vexation stands Vivified, and has Vowed to Vanquish these Venal and Viulent Vermin Vanguarding Vice and Vouchsafing the Violently Vicious and Voracious Violation of Volition!
The only Verdict is Vengeance- a Vendetta, held as a Votice- not in Vain, for the Value and Veracity of such shall one day Vindicate the Vigilant and the Virtuous. [Chuckling].
Verily, this Vichyssoise of Verbiage Veers most Verbose, so let me simply add that it’s my Very good honor to meet you, and you may call me V.
As spoken in V’s introduction to Evey – V for Vendetta (2006)
Enough of that. Now to the details of the tasting!
The Wines of Valpolicella – Fratelli Speri
21 JunFratelli Speri is located in the the wine zone known famously as Valpolicella within the Veneto region of north-east Italy. It lies within the province of Verona. Working back that’s the winery (Speri), then the zone (Valpolicella), then the province (Verona), then the region (Veneto). Don’t worry, I get confused too. They make a number of wine styles including Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto (all to be explained later). There is also a casual review of their Speri Valpolicella Vigneto La Roverina DOC 2008 to finish things off. But firstly, here is an excerpt by the Speri family that I enjoyed.
Wine Reviews April
18 MarTEDESCHI Soave Classico DOC 2009
Veneto, Italy
Here we have the perfect aperitif, or should I say, aperitivo, like the Italians? Well…when in Rome! This is made from the Garganega grape variety in the hills of the classic Soave zone of the north-eastern Veneto region of Italy. It is the sort of wine to begin your lunch or evening with as it is beautifully rounded with a green apple crispness, good body and juicy texture with a delightful hint of almonds to the finish. Fruity yet complex plus agreeably low in alcohol, this is a wine that will not cause complaints! Ideally paired with aperativo foods, fish and white meats.
RRP $27.00
CULLEN Mangan Petit Verdot Malbec Merlot 2009
Margaret River, WA, Australia
Ahh blends. They’re a polarising bunch. Under the right winemaking skill varietal blends work so that the flavours and grape characteristics intertwine harmoniously. This is a shining example made from a very complimentary blend of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot. Hello to a nose of blood plums with hints of mulberry and a sprinkling of pepper. The palate has fantastic fruit concentration and body but overall is medium-weighted, which is reflected in the lower alcohol content of 12.5%. Being Cullen means being biodynamic, which means these wines are not overworked and express themselves as they should be. There’s no pretentiousness here. This is top quality wine from one of the wine community’s most respected Australian producers.
RRP $38.00
KELLERMEISTER Dry Grown Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, SA, Australia
Ahh Kellermeister, you’ve done it again. This is such a seemingly black-fruited wine due to the Shiraz fruit coming from some of the oldest vines in the Barossa Valley. Lifted aromas of dark cherry, mulberry and dark bitter chocolate greet you then gently hint to aniseed, complex savoury aromas and a good touch of smoky, cedary oak. It is velvety and voluptuous in mouthfeel, politely leaving a crux of blackberry, liquorice and spice flavours as the lingering aftertaste. Ideally complements game, beef and vintage cheeses.
RRP $34.00