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Wine Reviews February
14 Feb2012
FIGHTING GULLY ROAD ‘Aquila’ 2010
King Valley & Alpine Valley, Victoria
RRP $24
Wine Reviews May
3 May2011
GIACONDA Aeolia Roussanne 2008
Beechworth, Victoria
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Photograph courtesy of the Wine House
- Not everybody is privy to the fact that Rick Kinzbrunner of Giaconda has a gorgeous 100% Roussanne wine up his sleeves that he has been making since 2000. Some would say it’s a bit old-school, then rub their hands together as they wait in anticipation for the arrival of his ‘should be interesting‘ Nebbiolo.
- Sorry, sidetracked for a moment there!
Back to this wine in particular, it is made from the Nantua and Warner vineyards in Beechworth and called Aeolia. That’s right, Ae-o-li-a. I’m not referring to the pigmented aureole around your nipple nor the Italian garlic mayonnaise aioli. Aeolia is a wine that can go the distance (such as the superb vintage of 2005 Aeolia), or is heavenly in its youth (like the focused 2008 Aeolia). Core to both wines is a heady perfume of honeydew and cashews, a hint of exotic spice, followed with a mouth-filling, tropical fruit, minerally, textural palate that continues to surprise with its length. Who ever thought Roussanne could be so good looking on its own!
Wine Reviews March
18 Mar2011
WOODLANDS ‘Chloe’ Reserve Chardonnay 2007
Margaret River, Western Australia
There is a definite reason why, like acclaimed wine critics, I have decided to praise this wine so highly: Woodlands have performed a triumphant feat with this sumptuous Reserve Chardonnay! The striking base of white stone fruits and grapefruit acidity was given real drive and length using the battonage technique, which has then added the sublime textural element and persistency in flavour that I am ultimately bragging about. This is one Margaret River Chardonnay that not only makes you sigh, but also makes you sing.
JEANNERET Big Fine Girl Riesling 2008
Clare Valley, South Australia
The Question: What do you get when you cross a Swiss chemist with the Clare Valley, a love of grapes and a beautiful dream?
The Answer: The beginning of Jeanneret where the son, Ben Jeanneret, now runs this kooky business. I introduce to you one of his offspring, the Big Fine Girl Riesling from the 2008 vintage. Appropriately named because she speaks from the more luscious side of the Riesling family with bucketloads of juicy apple and lime fruits with an acidity described as ‘refreshing and bracing as a mountain stream’. Now this is wine with personality!
NGERINGA Chardonnay 2008
Mt Barker, South Australia
“Our vineyards are the essence of our wine and the love of what we do, and biodynamics is the path along which we allow their character to shine.” Erinn and Janet at Ngeringa Vineyards wear their poetic hearts on their sleeves and put their passion into the vines and the resultant wines. The minimalist approach leads to no forced additions to the grape juice and it is wild yeast fermented. It is showing excellent intensity of flavour with tart grapefruit, white stone fruits and a thrust of spicy oak. After two years in bottle, this wine is now in perfect harmony. Drink now or in the next couple of years.
SORRENBERG Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2010
Beechworth, Victoria
Here is the latest release from the man whom in my eyes can do no wrong by stylistically breaking every rule in the Australian wine book. This is a rocking blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon with the former getting a bold eight hours of skin contact before pressing! This, along with the large barrel fermentation and extended lees contact, has assisted in giving this wine real mid-palate drive and weight complemented by the naturally refreshing, tight acidity. The finish is strong and with such unique structure and overall finesse, this wine exudes Sorrenberg’s character in bucket loads.
Wine Reviews February
18 Feb2011
TEUSNER Riebke Shiraz 2009
Barossa Valley, SA, Australia
The Riebke is such a sterling performer which makes the consumer thankful to the gang at Teusner for continuing to make it the little affordable quaffer year after year. It is really approachable being mouthwateringly juicy, packed full of flavour and perfectly balanced from acidity through to the firm finish. Winemaker Kym Teusner has a pretty good handle on these vines and has certainly done the Riebke Brothers proud.
DI LENARDO Pinot Grigio IGT 2009
DOC Grave & DOC Aquileia, Friuli, Italy
Massimo Di Lenardo is a man of unique character…Aren’t all Italian men for that matter? :-S Regardless, his wines are consistently beautiful, harvested by hand and lovingly made. His winery is located in the Friuli region in the north-east of Italy, in vineyards renowned for producing world-class Pinot Grigio. The palate is juicy with plenty of pear, a twist of lemon and a hint of cashew and a bouquet of Acacia florals, whilst the finish is dry, the acid streamlined and an elegant lingering flavour reminiscent of pear syrup and quince peel. Sure, this is a wine made for an export market, but it accurately targets and pleases Pinot Grigio lovers of a more textural and pear-fruited style.
TYRRELL’S Vat 1 Semillon 2000
Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia
I can’t rave enough about this wine. After doing a vertical tasting of Vat 1 Semillons at my work, I was rapped to find out that patience had paid off. The 2000 has gallantly ridden out of its adolescent maturation phase and now boasts gorgeous toasty notes, cashew and hints of beeswax with a still beautifully textured and restrained palate. The finish is long with sumptuous honeydew notes and leaves you asking your host, “Please sir, I want some more!”
Cheese Match: Try this wine with a soft Brie, perhaps combined in a gorgeous roasted pear, brie and rocket salad
Wine Reviews January
18 Jan2011
SORRENBERG Gamay 2009
Beechworth, Victoria
Sorrenberg’s Barry Morey’s humble offerings earn praise year after year, whether it is for his Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon, or his stunning Chardonnay which I tend to pine for every so often. His latest Gamay continues this strong tradition. Intriguingly it contains a small portion of Pinot Noir to combine two French styles of Beaujolais and Burgundy. The result is seamless but remarkably distinct with red berry aromatics tied to a hint of fresh cherry. For something made in the depths of a cellar underneath Barry’s house, the wine is a true delight said by those who know all about it.
S C PANNELL Nebbiolo 2007
Adelaide Hills, South Australia
In January 2011 Steve Pannell spread the Aussie love with his ‘All for One Wine’ campaign promoting Australian wines. With so many grape variety options here in Australia and to align myself for a moment with SC Pannell’s thinking, why would I venture overseas just for the day?! (Rheotorical question DO NOT ANSWER!).
OK, so be warned. I am a self-confessed Neb-head. For a variety that some would say is more easily misunderstood than appreciated, I am an ardent advocate of the Nebbiolo grape. The 2007 is classic in style from the autumnal colour, to the delicate red fruits that are beginning to edge into a more savoury tone. The picture is completed by the wonderfully high acidity that is balanced by its lashing of tannin and palate weight. Steve Pannell really is an exceptional producer of this complex variety. Share the Aussie love if you wish.
VINEA MARSON Sangiovese 2008
Heathcote, Victoria
“When the world seems to shine like you’ve had too much wine…” – The dear Dean Martin
As the Best Italian Varietal for the 2011 Good Wine Guide, Mario Marson’s most recent vintage provides the perfect template from which to benchmark great Aussie Sangiovese. A backbone of freshly picked cherries with hints of bramble and a lick of vanilla are complemented by a taut acidity, firm tannic kick and almond meal finish. Get on it.
GROSSET Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Clare Valley, South Australia
For their nineteenth vintage, Grosset has continued to drive for distinction, undoubtedly (and enviably) having one of the best styles in the country. Made from 60% Clare Valley Semillon and 40% Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc, this blend never disappoints in its flavoursome offering of tight citrus and pristine stone fruit perfumes. The overall lemon core provides the generous length and mouthwatering texture. A wine of this intensity will further evolve in the glass so don’t drink it too quickly!
La Donna del Vino
"'Just living is not enough,' said the butterfly. 'One must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower.'" - Hans Christian Andersen
La Donna del Vino 