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The Tasting: Valpolicella, Amarone and the venerable Speri

2 Aug
2011

A week ago on the 27th July 2011, the wonderful Sommeliers Australia association put together a delightful tasting for twenty willing Members at the old Melbourne Wine Room in St Kilda. The tasting was hosted by none other than The Wine Guide’s Dan Sims, with panel members including Speri winemaker Luca Speri, Italian wine importer Matt Paul from Trembath & Taylor and La Donna del Vino. I sat up the front voraciously anticipating the good things to come over the next two hours.

What words do you associate with an Amarone della Valpolicella wine tasting? Let me tell you: Velvety. Voluptuous. Vim. Vibrant. Va va voom! Exaggeration aside, my brain cannot ignore the urge it has to continue that alliteration of the letter ‘v’ by making reference to the script from a scene in the movie, ‘V for Vendetta’. Right here. Right now. Apologies for confusing anybody. Blame my brain.

Voila!

In view, a humble Vaudevillian Veteran, cast Vicariously as both Victim and Villain by the Vicissitudes of fate. This Visage, no mere Veneer of Vanity, is a Vestige of the Voc populi, now Vacant, Vanished. However, this Valorous Visitation of a bygone Vexation stands Vivified, and has Vowed to Vanquish these Venal and Viulent Vermin Vanguarding Vice and Vouchsafing the Violently Vicious and Voracious Violation of Volition!

The only Verdict is Vengeance- a Vendetta, held as a Votice- not in Vain, for the Value and Veracity of such shall one day Vindicate the Vigilant and the Virtuous. [Chuckling].

Verily, this Vichyssoise of Verbiage Veers most Verbose, so let me simply add that it’s my Very good honor to meet you, and you may call me V.

As spoken in V’s introduction to Evey – V for Vendetta (2006)

Enough of that. Now to the details of the tasting!

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Wine Reviews July

12 Jul
2011

SHIRVINGTON Cabernet Sauvignon

McLaren Vale, South Australia

RRP $55-$65

Hmm…that name…Shirvington. Doesn’t it make you think of the Australian track athlete Matt Shirvington and the package that was so infamously publicized on television years ago?

Or was that just me getting a little excited? Anyway, the joke beckons, but I will save that until last.

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The Wines of Valpolicella – Fratelli Speri

21 Jun
2011

Fratelli Speri is located in the the wine zone known famously as Valpolicella within the Veneto region of north-east Italy. It lies within the province of Verona. Working back that’s the winery (Speri), then the zone (Valpolicella), then the province (Verona), then the region (Veneto). Don’t worry, I get confused too. They make a number of wine styles including Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto (all to be explained later). There is also a casual review of their Speri Valpolicella Vigneto La Roverina DOC 2008 to finish things off. But firstly, here is an excerpt by the Speri family that I enjoyed.

From left: Gianpaolo, Gianpietro, Luca, Chiara & Alberto

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Wine Reviews June

2 Jun
2011

CHALMERS Nero d’Avola 2009

Mildura, Victoria

RRP $29

This is a wine of mid-burgundy hue with dusty pink tones that made me seriously want to watch ‘Pretty in Pink’ because I kept picturing Molly Ringwald’s character fabulously suited up for her prom in that garish pink dress…you remember the one!

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Wine Reviews May

3 May
2011

GIACONDA Aeolia Roussanne 2008

Beechworth, Victoria

Photograph courtesy of the Wine House

Not everybody is privy to the fact that Rick Kinzbrunner of Giaconda has a gorgeous 100% Roussanne wine up his sleeves that he has been making since 2000. Some would say it’s a bit old-school, then rub their hands together as they wait in anticipation for the arrival of his ‘should be interesting‘ Nebbiolo.
Sorry, sidetracked for a moment there!

Back to this wine in particular, it is made from the Nantua and Warner vineyards in Beechworth and called Aeolia. That’s right, Ae-o-li-a. I’m not referring to the pigmented aureole around your nipple nor the Italian garlic mayonnaise aioli. Aeolia is a wine that can go the distance (such as the superb vintage of 2005 Aeolia), or is heavenly in its youth (like the focused 2008 Aeolia). Core to both wines is a heady perfume of honeydew and cashews, a hint of exotic spice, followed with a mouth-filling, tropical fruit, minerally, textural palate that continues to surprise with its length. Who ever thought Roussanne could be so good looking on its own!

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Try not to appear too aghast…but I am published in Melbourne’s GRAM Magazine

30 Apr
2011

Hooray! See link below:

GRAM issue 3 – La Donna del Vino Wine Reviews

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Il coraggioso Matteo Correggia e il Roero

12 Apr
2011

The late Matteo Correggia - Photograph by Matthew Molchen

ABOUT MATTEO CORREGGIA

The wine world lost one of its greats back in 2001 when the driven and ardent Roero vine dresser Matteo was taken unexpectedly in an accident in the vineyard. Prior to his death, Matteo had worked fervently to establish the sandy soils and the vines of the Roero as fruit that could one day be held next to the great Langhe vines. His dedication to his craft meant he gradually bought the vineyards that he knew ripened the best and had the best exposures and sold off those he knew he would rather do without. When at last the world took notice to his beautiful wines, it was all be taken away from him and the estate was left in his wife Ornella’s capable hands. The wines are now made under the direction of enologist Luca Rostagno – the man Matteo wanted to make the wine in his cellar.

ABOUT THE ROERO

Matteo Correggia’s estate is based on the northern side of the Tanaro river in Piemonte in the area known as the Roero (rather than the more southerly and well-known Langhe wine region). It is an area long-renowned for the native white grape Arneis, a wine that is usually unoaked and consumed when young and is a beautiful accompaniment to fish dishes. It is the reds though that are commanding due attention, with a classic Roero rosso like Matteo Correggia’s La Val dei Preti or earlier maturing Roero made from 100% Nebbiolo in the Canale d’Alba region of the Roero hills. These wines tend to be lower in price also due to a lower demand with the majority of people going for the more publicised Langhe wine region. So I say, scoop up a bargain, put your feelers out there, and the next time you come across a wine with Roero on the label, well apart from knowing a little more about the area now, you can feel confident that it is an area producing reputable, delicious wines worthy of the purchase! Trust me!

Roero and the Langhe wine regions: courtesy of Chevsky

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Wine Reviews March

18 Mar
2011

WOODLANDS ‘Chloe’ Reserve Chardonnay 2007

Margaret River, Western Australia

 

There is a definite reason why, like acclaimed wine critics, I have decided to praise this wine so highly: Woodlands have performed a triumphant feat with this sumptuous Reserve Chardonnay! The striking base of white stone fruits and grapefruit acidity was given real drive and length using the battonage technique, which has then added the sublime textural element and persistency in flavour that I am ultimately bragging about. This is one Margaret River Chardonnay that not only makes you sigh, but also makes you sing.

JEANNERET Big Fine Girl Riesling 2008

Clare Valley, South Australia

The Question: What do you get when you cross a Swiss chemist with the Clare Valley, a love of grapes and a beautiful dream?

The Answer: The beginning of Jeanneret where the son, Ben Jeanneret, now runs this kooky business. I introduce to you one of his offspring, the Big Fine Girl Riesling from the 2008 vintage. Appropriately named because she speaks from the more luscious side of the Riesling family with bucketloads of juicy apple and lime fruits with an acidity described as ‘refreshing and bracing as a mountain stream’. Now this is wine with personality!

NGERINGA Chardonnay 2008

Mt Barker, South Australia

 

“Our vineyards are the essence of our wine and the love of what we do, and biodynamics is the path along which we allow their character to shine.” Erinn and Janet at Ngeringa Vineyards wear their poetic hearts on their sleeves and put their passion into the vines and the resultant wines. The minimalist approach leads to no forced additions to the grape juice and it is wild yeast fermented. It is showing excellent intensity of flavour with tart grapefruit, white stone fruits and a thrust of spicy oak. After two years in bottle, this wine is now in perfect harmony. Drink now or in the next couple of years.

SORRENBERG Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2010

Beechworth, Victoria

 

Here is the latest release from the man whom in my eyes can do no wrong by stylistically breaking every rule in the Australian wine book. This is a rocking blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon with the former getting a bold eight hours of skin contact before pressing! This, along with the large barrel fermentation and extended lees contact, has assisted in giving this wine real mid-palate drive and weight complemented by the naturally refreshing, tight acidity. The finish is strong and with such unique structure and overall finesse, this wine exudes Sorrenberg’s character in bucket loads.

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Wine Reviews April

18 Mar
2011

TEDESCHI Soave Classico DOC 2009

Veneto, Italy

Here we have the perfect aperitif, or should I say, aperitivo, like the Italians? Well…when in Rome! This is made from the Garganega grape variety in the hills of the classic Soave zone of the north-eastern Veneto region of Italy. It is the sort of wine to begin your lunch or evening with as it is beautifully rounded with a green apple crispness, good body and juicy texture with a delightful hint of almonds to the finish. Fruity yet complex plus agreeably low in alcohol, this is a wine that will not cause complaints! Ideally paired with aperativo foods, fish and white meats.

RRP $27.00

CULLEN Mangan Petit Verdot Malbec Merlot 2009

Margaret River, WA, Australia

Ahh blends. They’re a polarising bunch. Under the right winemaking skill varietal blends work so that the flavours and grape characteristics intertwine harmoniously. This is a shining example made from a very complimentary blend of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot. Hello to a nose of blood plums with hints of mulberry and a sprinkling of pepper. The palate has fantastic fruit concentration and body but overall is medium-weighted, which is reflected in the lower alcohol content of 12.5%.  Being Cullen means being biodynamic, which means these wines are not overworked and express themselves as they should be. There’s no pretentiousness here. This is top quality wine from one of the wine community’s most respected Australian producers.

RRP $38.00

KELLERMEISTER Dry Grown Shiraz 2008

Barossa Valley, SA, Australia

Ahh Kellermeister, you’ve done it again. This is such a seemingly black-fruited wine due to the Shiraz fruit coming from some of the oldest vines in the Barossa Valley. Lifted aromas of dark cherry, mulberry and dark bitter chocolate greet you then gently hint to aniseed, complex savoury aromas and a good touch of smoky, cedary oak. It is velvety and voluptuous in mouthfeel, politely leaving a crux of blackberry, liquorice and spice flavours as the lingering aftertaste. Ideally complements game, beef and vintage cheeses.

RRP $34.00

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For the Baroliste: I present to ye, Signor Luciano Sandrone!

17 Mar
2011

The bottles of Luciano Sandrone - Photograph La Donna del Vino

Ah yes, twas yet again another fantastic session at the Prince Wine Store in Bank Street, South Melbourne.

They held a tasting of eight wines from the meticulous producer Luciano Sandrone in Piemonte. His are wines I have yet to look at in a back-vintage line-up so I was super keen to do this Masterclass with a group of randoms to see what we would be looking at.

The last time I’d seen Sandrone’s wines was back in 2008 at ‘The Greatest Tasting of my Life‘ and more recently in January at the ‘2011 Lorenzo Galli Wine Scholarship-Day 1 Tasting‘. Both times I have looked at his Cannubi Boschis Barolo, which was interesting for me to realise and compare notes back. Either way, he is seemingly an excellent producer and the ability to understand the story behind his production, gradual collection of vineyards and philosophy behind his wines was truly a beautiful opportunity to be able to share.

All in all we were a group of about fifteen…yet again, I was the only female. Why aren’t other women onto this? There’s not that many places you can hang out and drink with just men and not get teased for it!? Meh! Maybe I’ll just keep it my little secret…shhhh 😛

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Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday, Saturday – The Sicilian Wine Tasting

15 Mar
2011

Of course it would be inappropriate had I not made reference to the ‘eloquent’ and oh so lovely Apollonia from the Godfather I, considering the fact this is a Sicilian wine tasting I am about to talk about!

Last week on Wednesday I received a call from one of my places of work, Enoteca Sileno, asking me if I was aware I was working the following night assisting with the Sicilian Association’s Wine Tasting event that would be taking place in the function room. I was not aware, however the manager said I would just need to help close the Retail section downstairs then head upstairs to give them a ‘hand’. To me, that infers pouring wine, or merely helping out in some small, mindless way.

How wrong could I be?!

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MFWF – Wine Retreat with Dan Sims

14 Mar
2011

I’m such a good girl volunteering my only day off in the week to help pour wine. Not just anybody can pour wine, you know? Clearly, that is why sommeliers and other wino people get asked to contribute a small portion of their time to such wonderful events!

Speaking of pouring skills, I might as well just get my doofus actions out of the way immediately!

So I got asked by Dan Sims (of the Wine Guide and Sommeliers Australia) to volunteer for this event during Melbourne Food & Wine Festival at the Langham Hotel Saturday morning. It would be lovely to sit in on the events, help pour and set up and taste the line-up of wines free of charge so of course I said yes!

Where my debacle comes in was at the start of the day when I was out the back opening some Gembrook Hills Blanc de Blanc sparkling with Leanne Altmann (Assistant Somm at Cutler & Co.) who was also volunteering at the event. Picture Scarlett Johannson and her ad for Moet e Chandon…opening a bottle of sparkling seems seamless, right?

Advertisement courtesy of Moet e Chandon

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Wine Reviews February

18 Feb
2011

TEUSNER Riebke Shiraz 2009

Barossa Valley, SA, Australia

The Riebke is such a sterling performer which makes the consumer thankful to the gang at Teusner for continuing to make it the little affordable quaffer year after year. It is really approachable being mouthwateringly juicy, packed full of flavour and perfectly balanced from acidity through to the firm finish. Winemaker Kym Teusner has a pretty good handle on these vines and has certainly done the Riebke Brothers proud.

DI LENARDO Pinot Grigio IGT 2009

DOC Grave & DOC Aquileia, Friuli, Italy

 

Massimo Di Lenardo is a man of unique character…Aren’t all Italian men for that matter? :-S Regardless, his wines are consistently beautiful, harvested by hand and lovingly made. His winery is located in the Friuli region in the north-east of Italy, in vineyards renowned for producing world-class Pinot Grigio. The palate is juicy with plenty of pear, a twist of lemon and a hint of cashew and a bouquet of Acacia florals, whilst the finish is dry, the acid streamlined and an elegant lingering flavour reminiscent of pear syrup and quince peel. Sure, this is a wine made for an export market, but it accurately targets and pleases Pinot Grigio lovers of a more textural and pear-fruited style.

TYRRELL’S Vat 1 Semillon 2000

Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia


I can’t rave enough about this wine. After doing a vertical tasting of Vat 1 Semillons at my work, I was rapped to find out that patience had paid off. The 2000 has gallantly ridden out of its adolescent maturation phase and now boasts gorgeous toasty notes, cashew and hints of beeswax with a still beautifully textured and restrained palate. The finish is long with sumptuous honeydew notes and leaves you asking your host, “Please sir, I want some more!”

Cheese Match: Try this wine with a soft Brie, perhaps combined in a gorgeous roasted pear, brie and rocket salad

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Battista Rinaldi – “Barolo is a wine worth devoting yourself to”

8 Feb
2011

Allow me to present Giuseppe Rinaldi and his wines of Barolo in Piemonte, Italy.

To his friends, he is simply known as Beppe.

Giuseppe (Beppe) Rinaldi – Photograph by Gio’ Martorana

“I could tell you a whole lot of things, since I belong to a complex generation that lived through a historical period of great ideals and upheavals which cast doubt on everything, including the ways of interpreting the countryside and agriculture. A generation which with great effort carried the burden of older generations on its shoulders. I still recall the greyness and destitution of the postwar years…

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The ladies check out Luke Lambert’s wines in the Yarra Valley

3 Feb
2011

Oh dear, I was glancing through photos and realised I hadn’t even written up the trip to see Luke Lambert and his wines in the Yarra Valley back on November the 1st.

Oops.

My cousin Amanda is a massive cheese geek and overall foodie. We complement one another perfectly because I’m the massive wine nerd who also loves to eat food. Do you see how we mesh so well now?

After little debate, I convinced Amanda to take the day off work for health reasons and to accompany me on a visit to the Yarra Valley. First stop? Madden’s Rise Winery off the Maroondah Highway and also Luke Lambert‘s hideaway where he weaves his own magic.

After a home-brewed coffee in the lab, a tour through the vineyards to see his nebb (nebbiolo vines) and a sip through and comparison of the Heathcote and Yarra Valley Nebbiolo in barrel, we were met with this:

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Passion for Red Runs in the Blood – Jane Faulkner

1 Feb
2011

Giuseppe Vajra’s new venture in Barolo

(click article to view larger/clearer)

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Aldo Vajra – il pio bove

28 Jan
2011

The agronomist and enologist himself, Aldo Vajra – Photograph by Gio Martorana

“It may be because I’m Taurus, an earth sign, and perhaps in that starry sky of 1953 it was written that my character would be somewhat stubborn, pernickety, and I would like good food, slow and relaxing atmospheres and reading in front of an open fire. Lazy and robust but also as active and strong as the land I love to work.

…

Over the past twenty years I’ve always sought the role of a simple craftsman of wine, oriented toward the continuous search for a profitable collaboration with nature who is the true artist, the only one capable of creating unique, unrepeatable wines that are different from one year to the next. It’s an ongoing research that I still haven’t concluded, with moments of joy and moments of consternation, especially when there is adverse weather that I can do nothing about.

…

Now and then I pause to look at my land and I observe the vineyards which, like me, have changed: today I see them differently, just as my approach to nature is different. But what haven’t changed for me in these years are certain needs for interior clarity, authenticity and transparency that I carry within me. Maybe the need to look at the world with placid and peaceful eyes, no longer those of an impetuous “bull” but, in Carducci’s words, of a patient pio bove (pious ox) silently ruminating on the lush grass and enjoying the tranquil moments that life brings.”

ALDO VAJRA – “Piemonte…noblewoman of wine” by Andrea Zanfi 2005

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Serendipity with the venerable Vajra

24 Jan
2011

Dolcetto, Coste e Fossati Dolcetto, Langhe Nebbiolo, Freisa and Bricco delle Viole Barolo

Today being Monday, the restaurant was closed and I assumed it would be quite the quiet and lonely day without my friends in black next door. Alas, things turned out to get somewhat better when I found a box of opened G.D. Vajra wines in the cheese room!

Score!

Mind you, not every day brings me such serendipitous offerings!

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2011 Lorenzo Galli Media Release

19 Jan
2011

2011 Lorenzo Galli Media Release

Check out the media release of what I got up to at the start of the week!

My own personal anecdotes to follow…watch this space!

Wine Reviews January

18 Jan
2011

SORRENBERG Gamay 2009

Beechworth, Victoria

Sorrenberg’s Barry Morey’s humble offerings earn praise year after year, whether it is for his Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon, or his stunning Chardonnay which I tend to pine for every so often. His latest Gamay continues this strong tradition. Intriguingly it contains a small portion of Pinot Noir to combine two French styles of Beaujolais and Burgundy. The result is seamless but remarkably distinct with red berry aromatics tied to a hint of fresh cherry. For something made in the depths of a cellar underneath Barry’s house, the wine is a true delight said by those who know all about it.

S C PANNELL Nebbiolo 2007

Adelaide Hills, South Australia


In January 2011 Steve Pannell spread the Aussie love with his ‘All for One Wine’ campaign promoting Australian wines. With so many grape variety options here in Australia and to align myself for a moment with SC Pannell’s thinking, why would I venture overseas just for the day?! (Rheotorical question DO NOT ANSWER!).

OK, so be warned. I am a self-confessed Neb-head. For a variety that some would say is more easily misunderstood than appreciated, I am an ardent advocate of the Nebbiolo grape. The 2007 is classic in style from the autumnal colour, to the delicate red fruits that are beginning to edge into a more savoury tone. The picture is completed by the wonderfully high acidity that is balanced by its lashing of tannin and palate weight. Steve Pannell really is an exceptional producer of this complex variety. Share the Aussie love if you wish.

VINEA MARSON Sangiovese 2008

Heathcote, Victoria


“When the world seems to shine like you’ve had too much wine…” – The dear Dean Martin

As the Best Italian Varietal for the 2011 Good Wine Guide, Mario Marson’s most recent vintage provides the perfect template from which to benchmark great Aussie Sangiovese. A backbone of freshly picked cherries with hints of bramble and a lick of vanilla are complemented by a taut acidity, firm tannic kick and almond meal finish. Get on it.

GROSSET Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Clare Valley, South Australia


For their nineteenth vintage, Grosset has continued to drive for distinction, undoubtedly (and enviably) having one of the best styles in the country. Made from 60% Clare Valley Semillon and 40% Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc, this blend never disappoints in its flavoursome offering of tight citrus and pristine stone fruit perfumes. The overall lemon core provides the generous length and mouthwatering texture. A wine of this intensity will further evolve in the glass so don’t drink it too quickly!

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