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A glorious night out with the Czech Republic!

4 Oct
2008

Tonight we had a great time. Gianni, Andrea, Stefano and myself drove to Mango to a low-key trattoria where Stefano’s friend, Geoff Chilcott of New Zealand had friends over from the Czech Republic. We were a group of 18 in total. Geoff works for the Gresy family winery in Barbaresco and has been living here for the last twenty years or so. We all had to bring a covered bottle of wine…or two. Hence about 24 wines in total! What a festa!

All the bottles at the end of the night…

So the dinner party started after 9pm. Classic. To kick off the evening in case we didn’t think we would be drinking enough wine that night, we had an aperativo of Champagne. Philippounat I believe. From there flowed the wine continuously with options games taking place.

Five antipasto dishes (including prosciutto with puff pastry, salami, insalata russa, carne crudo di vitello, which I love, tripe and tripe soup with fagioli beans). Primi was next with ravioli in sage and butter sauce, a classic Piemontese pasta dish which I have become a bit of a wiz at. Several secondi were put in front of us which I gladly consumed, including cinghiale with polenta and guinea fowl.

Fratelli Cigliuti’s Serraboella vineyard Barbaresco 1989

At about 1pm or a bit after the nocciola ice cream and pineapple tart dessert arrived and 24 bottles of wine were polished off. I had brought with me the One Eye Shadowfax 2005 Shiraz, which looked quite good, but so not European so it stood out amongst everything else.

Go the ‘Fax!

Drank:

Brut Champagne by Gobillar (50% Chardonnay, 25% each PN & PM). Wonderful lees characters, refreshing and balanced.

2003 Bouin Muscat di Frontignac from Macedonia. Seemed like a Sauvignon Blanc, still fresh, but quite simple.

2005 Langhe Sauvignon Blanc by Parusso – Montforte d’Alba

1998 Langhe Chardonnay by Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy – Martinenga. Opened up beautifully with time in the glass, still fresh with a lot of oak influence which did not dominate though. Overall impressive.

2006 Arneis by Malvira – Rodera. Simple but admittedly a good example of this Piemontese variety.

2006 Pinot Nero by Boheme in Czech Republic. Seemed like a Gamay but was actually a Pinot Noir.

2007 Suche’ Neronet by Esterka in Czech Republic di Moldavia. Wine with a dark colour, high pH, sweet palate, is a native grape.

2001 Valpolicella Superiore di Veneto. I thought it was Grenache, Stefano guessed Nebbiolo. Damn.

2007 Rose d’Austria using Blaufrankish.

2005 Shiraz ‘One Eye’ by Shadowfax – Heathcote. After sampling Italian wines with high acidity and less obvious fruit, this Aussie Shiraz stood out like a sort thumb. Most people guessed it and they thought it was quite a big wine, which is true especially in relation to its alcohol content.

2004 Pinot Nero from Valais, Switzerland. I could tell it was distinctly Pinot Noir but wrongly assumed it was a nice Burgundy. My first wine ever from here! And I am impressed! The acidity is higher in these wines than Burgundies too.

2007 Nebbiolo Langhe by Gresy, Martinenga in Barbaresco. For a wine this young it was surprisingly drinkable now!

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Aglianico blend by Montevetrano in Campagna.

2001 Sagrantino by Montefarco in Umbria. Was a tired, problematic wine.

2003 red grape by Pallavo- Sicilia. Corked.

1998 La Spinetta Valeirano Barbaresco. Looking tired with loss of fruit, cork’s fault!

2003 Chapoutier’s Chateauneuf du Pape in the Rhone. Lovely wine.

2005 Bourjeoes Cru Bordeaux in Medoc

2003 Merlot da solo by Gresy, Martinenga in Barbaresco.

1989 Fratelli Cigliuti Barbaresco Serraboella. Stood up to the test and was a lovely wine, old age bottle characters, still juicy fruit, firm tannins. Superb.

1998 Malvira Roero Superiore. Quite a robust wine, not tired at all.

2007 Moscato d’Asti by Goergis, Mango in Piemonte.

Harvesting parameters

1 Oct
2008

Typical harvesting parameters of the varieties here in Piemonte as discussed with Stefano:

Babo Baume Brix pH
Moscato 18.5 12.2 22 3.1-2
Sauvignon Blanc 19 12.4 22.4 3.2-3
Chardonnay 19.5 12.7 23 3.2-3
Barbera 21-22 14.35 26 3.4
Nebbiolo 21.5 14 25.4 3.4

Bonding with the boys

25 Sep
2008

Today I was la regina di riempire le barrique (the queen of filling barrels). I did not spill anything which winemaking Andrea Rivetti informed me was a first for a person who is here for only vintage. After work someone pulled out some bottles.

The barrique hall at Castagnole delle Lanze

Myself and the boys drank: 2001 La Spinetta Pin Monferatto Rosso – I thought the 2001 had some real Bordeaux-like characters, which understandable once I was told some Cabernet Sauvignon was added in that year to the Nebbiolo and Barbera blend.

We continued drinking and then my mamma Emiliana arrived with some gorgonzola so we migrated to the degustation room and ate until 7:30pm when I realised my dinner was probably ready upstairs so I left the lads and ran to eat some trout. Afterwards, I decided it would be more beneficial to my Italian and to my reputation with my alcohol-loving boss Andrea if I went back downstairs after dinner to drink some more vino with them…so I did.

We had Franciacorta’s and Valentino’s and whilst the men sang, shouted and teased, I took it all it. I did get the chance to ask Andrea if he was happy with how I am working so far to which he said yes, definitely, which was a relief to hear. We were a little inebriated so I think he would have said something positive whatever I asked!

Drank: Cuvee Valentino sparkling from Piemonte, Riserva Spumante. Dangerous on an empty stomach!

I stumbled back to bed at 11pm and fell into dreams with my head spinning like it never has before!

Under Stefano’s wing

23 Sep
2008

The last two days have been fantastic with work. The cellarmaster Stefano has taken me under his wing and I’m actually in the winery a lot more now and doing all things with him. This is such a huge change from the way they treat the other ragazza Danila. She has not shown any initiative or extra sort of physical capabilities and is happy to help Gianni do orders, so is delegated to that part of the winery instead of the exciting cellar during vintage! Go figure…

Winemaker at work, Stefano Mazzetti

At the end of the day Giorgio came into the winery and we went and tasted the 2008 Barbera they’d just pressed and put into tank to see if it was still sweet. It was, just. He was saying how this vintage 2008 reminds him of 1996. A good vintage for Barbera, Nebbiolo, Moscato, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but not for Dolcetto. The reason being that the hot days and cold nights are great normally, but one really cold night will completely stop the maturation of a dolcetto grape. Risky business.

Tonight drank: 2000 La Spinetta Gallina Barbera d’Alba – great nose, good lenth and structure.

Conto Rosso and the Bianco Notte

20 Sep
2008

Can you tell I have been too busy to write? We’ve processed a large proportion of the Moscato d’Asti already, which has been tiring seeing as we start at 5:30am in the morning. But the smell as the grapes are crushed is divine. Do you know it smells just like the resultant wine? The yeast we use too smells just like fresh nectarines and peaches as we’re making the starter culture! So many good smells in the winery! For someone like me with a manic-sniffing nose, that sort of thing puts a smile on my face regardless of the task I am doing.

After an exhausting day of work today I went out to dinner with my flatmate Manuela and her sister Ele to a restaurant in Alba called Conto Rosso. It was quite busy in the town centre because it was the first festival day in tartufo (truffle) season. The night was called Bianco Notte (white night).

Manuela ed Ele – sono sorelle

For dinner I ate a delicious antipasto of carne crudo di vitello (raw veal) with lemon dressing. For main I had a ravioli del Phin in a rabbit sugo. For dessert, gelato!

We drank: 2006 Elio Grasso Barbera d’Alba. Disappointing, weak nose, unbalanced acidity, weak structure. Shame…

Lidia

14 Sep
2008

Drank: 1997 La Spinetta ‘Lidia’ Chardonnay. Lovely complex and textured palate, lacking on the nose but still in good condition.

La Contea, Neive

7 Sep
2008

So it’s Sunday and into my second week at La Spinetta where I’m doing vintage in Piemonte, Italy. The winery work has not begun to reach that state of chaos just yet though. Fortunately this gives me time to do other more local things!

Today Gianni took me out for an aperativo in Neive where we then went to the brilliant restaurant La Contea for a long lunch. It was set up in the town’s courtyard with rows and rows of long tables for all the guests. The first course had a couple of things on the plate, one being shreds of yellow capsicums with sardine paste on top, or a minced baby veal shaped like a tomato (salted and seasoned to perfection) and insalata russa.

La Contea, Neive

Following the spuntino was the primi of small basil-sauced ravioli, then the obligatory second alternative of meat-ragu home-made pappardelle pasta.

The secondo was capretto (baby goat) in a rich sauce and the dessert was a stunning peach sponge cake with nocciola (hazlenuts) sprinkled over the top. You could have killed me with happiness then and there.

Wines we drank:

2006 Ugo l’Equio Langhe Nebbiolo from Neive

2005 Fratelli Cigliuti Barbaresco from Vigne Erte (younger vines than Serraboella)

2005 Ca Veja Paitin Bricco di Neive Nebbiolo d’Alba by Pasquero Elia

Arrived at Castagnole delle Lanze, Piemonte

22 Aug
2008

Chilling on the balcony after a long flight

Drank: 2003 La Spinetta Pin Monferatto Rosso. 65% Nebbiolo and 35% Barbera. Beautifully balanced, concentrated savoury flavours