Ramblings: How do you treat your most beloved body part?

10 Feb
2011

There are times in my life…or perhaps…the majority of times in my life (this is something my family could attest to)…when I think that I am hilarious in my thinking…and nobody else does. The ‘Others’, shall I call them, would rather call me daft. Well, this is another one of those moments when something interesting sprang into my mind, posing questions, inspiring the inventor within me, but who knows what anybody else will make of this. They’ll probably just think that I’m weird. So here goes, humour me.

A sports athlete or player of some sort will often treat themselves to something special after a long hard slog on the track, or in the pool, or on the court. When I say ‘treat’ themselves, I actually mean ‘pampering’ themselves in the area they’ve exerted the most effort. So a runner might go get a foot massage or body massage to loosen the muscles and ease the tension. A tennis player might do the same but go to a sauna to relax. After a day of defining their buns of steel, the AFL team might next go to the beach to take it easy. A classical pianist player would prefer to play something lighthearted as a treat to their fingers for the discipline involved in a complicated piece.

Photo taken by La Donna del Vino, August 2009

Where am I headed? I’m not a sports athlete…and I write about vino…Confused?

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Battista Rinaldi – “Barolo is a wine worth devoting yourself to”

8 Feb
2011

Allow me to present Giuseppe Rinaldi and his wines of Barolo in Piemonte, Italy.

To his friends, he is simply known as Beppe.

Giuseppe (Beppe) Rinaldi – Photograph by Gio’ Martorana

“I could tell you a whole lot of things, since I belong to a complex generation that lived through a historical period of great ideals and upheavals which cast doubt on everything, including the ways of interpreting the countryside and agriculture. A generation which with great effort carried the burden of older generations on its shoulders. I still recall the greyness and destitution of the postwar years…

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The ladies check out Luke Lambert’s wines in the Yarra Valley

3 Feb
2011

Oh dear, I was glancing through photos and realised I hadn’t even written up the trip to see Luke Lambert and his wines in the Yarra Valley back on November the 1st.

Oops.

My cousin Amanda is a massive cheese geek and overall foodie. We complement one another perfectly because I’m the massive wine nerd who also loves to eat food. Do you see how we mesh so well now?

After little debate, I convinced Amanda to take the day off work for health reasons and to accompany me on a visit to the Yarra Valley. First stop? Madden’s Rise Winery off the Maroondah Highway and also Luke Lambert‘s hideaway where he weaves his own magic.

After a home-brewed coffee in the lab, a tour through the vineyards to see his nebb (nebbiolo vines) and a sip through and comparison of the Heathcote and Yarra Valley Nebbiolo in barrel, we were met with this:

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Passion for Red Runs in the Blood – Jane Faulkner

1 Feb
2011

Giuseppe Vajra’s new venture in Barolo

(click article to view larger/clearer)

Aldo Vajra – il pio bove

28 Jan
2011

The agronomist and enologist himself, Aldo Vajra – Photograph by Gio Martorana

“It may be because I’m Taurus, an earth sign, and perhaps in that starry sky of 1953 it was written that my character would be somewhat stubborn, pernickety, and I would like good food, slow and relaxing atmospheres and reading in front of an open fire. Lazy and robust but also as active and strong as the land I love to work.

Over the past twenty years I’ve always sought the role of a simple craftsman of wine, oriented toward the continuous search for a profitable collaboration with nature who is the true artist, the only one capable of creating unique, unrepeatable wines that are different from one year to the next. It’s an ongoing research that I still haven’t concluded, with moments of joy and moments of consternation, especially when there is adverse weather that I can do nothing about.

Now and then I pause to look at my land and I observe the vineyards which, like me, have changed: today I see them differently, just as my approach to nature is different. But what haven’t changed for me in these years are certain needs for interior clarity, authenticity and transparency that I carry within me. Maybe the need to look at the world with placid and peaceful eyes, no longer those of an impetuous “bull” but, in Carducci’s words, of a patient pio bove (pious ox) silently ruminating on the lush grass and enjoying the tranquil moments that life brings.”

ALDO VAJRA – “Piemonte…noblewoman of wine” by Andrea Zanfi 2005

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Serendipity with the venerable Vajra

24 Jan
2011

Dolcetto, Coste e Fossati Dolcetto, Langhe Nebbiolo, Freisa and Bricco delle Viole Barolo

Today being Monday, the restaurant was closed and I assumed it would be quite the quiet and lonely day without my friends in black next door. Alas, things turned out to get somewhat better when I found a box of opened G.D. Vajra wines in the cheese room!

Score!

Mind you, not every day brings me such serendipitous offerings!

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Is it time to rethink our wine marketing strategies?

22 Jan
2011

Forget the old, unoriginal press shots of a featured winemaker holding his glass to his own schnoz ala:

Semprevino winemaker Russel Schroder, McLaren Vale

Pfft! Yawn.

Nowadays you must compete in a much more interesting manner.

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2011 Lorenzo Galli Media Release

19 Jan
2011

2011 Lorenzo Galli Media Release

Check out the media release of what I got up to at the start of the week!

My own personal anecdotes to follow…watch this space!

Wine Reviews January

18 Jan
2011

SORRENBERG Gamay 2009

Beechworth, Victoria

Sorrenberg’s Barry Morey’s humble offerings earn praise year after year, whether it is for his Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon, or his stunning Chardonnay which I tend to pine for every so often. His latest Gamay continues this strong tradition. Intriguingly it contains a small portion of Pinot Noir to combine two French styles of Beaujolais and Burgundy. The result is seamless but remarkably distinct with red berry aromatics tied to a hint of fresh cherry. For something made in the depths of a cellar underneath Barry’s house, the wine is a true delight said by those who know all about it.

S C PANNELL Nebbiolo 2007

Adelaide Hills, South Australia


In January 2011 Steve Pannell spread the Aussie love with his ‘All for One Wine’ campaign promoting Australian wines. With so many grape variety options here in Australia and to align myself for a moment with SC Pannell’s thinking, why would I venture overseas just for the day?! (Rheotorical question DO NOT ANSWER!).

OK, so be warned. I am a self-confessed Neb-head. For a variety that some would say is more easily misunderstood than appreciated, I am an ardent advocate of the Nebbiolo grape. The 2007 is classic in style from the autumnal colour, to the delicate red fruits that are beginning to edge into a more savoury tone. The picture is completed by the wonderfully high acidity that is balanced by its lashing of tannin and palate weight. Steve Pannell really is an exceptional producer of this complex variety. Share the Aussie love if you wish.

VINEA MARSON Sangiovese 2008

Heathcote, Victoria


“When the world seems to shine like you’ve had too much wine…” – The dear Dean Martin

As the Best Italian Varietal for the 2011 Good Wine Guide, Mario Marson’s most recent vintage provides the perfect template from which to benchmark great Aussie Sangiovese. A backbone of freshly picked cherries with hints of bramble and a lick of vanilla are complemented by a taut acidity, firm tannic kick and almond meal finish. Get on it.

GROSSET Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Clare Valley, South Australia


For their nineteenth vintage, Grosset has continued to drive for distinction, undoubtedly (and enviably) having one of the best styles in the country. Made from 60% Clare Valley Semillon and 40% Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc, this blend never disappoints in its flavoursome offering of tight citrus and pristine stone fruit perfumes. The overall lemon core provides the generous length and mouthwatering texture. A wine of this intensity will further evolve in the glass so don’t drink it too quickly!

DAY ONE: L’Erudito – The Lorenzo Galli Wine Scholarship 2011

17 Jan
2011

Who says it’s too early to drink wine before 9am?

Clearly if you want to be involved in this Galli Scholarship you better get your act together!

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PANELLISTS: L’Erudito – The Lorenzo Galli Wine Scholarship 2011

16 Jan
2011

Head Panellists

Jane Faulkner

Wine Writer

Michael Trembath

Wine Importer

Trembath & Taylor

Dan Sims

Project Manager

The Wine Guide

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SCHOLARS: L’Erudito – The Lorenzo Galli Wine Scholarship 2011

16 Jan
2011

Scholars 2011:

IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER

Leanne Altmann

Sommelier

Cutler & Co [VIC]

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Prince Wine Store Tasting: Tre Bicchieri Winners & A Few Favourites!

4 Jan
2011

Well it has taken me an awful long time to get around to this but finally I can rave about a tasting I went to in December 2010 with Michael McNamara at the Prince Wine Store in Bank St, South Melbourne. All the wines are available there. After the free oyster and French Chablis tasting in the store, you could pay $35 and go into the Pod to try Italian goodies! You’d be silly not to, right?

Apparently only six other older gentlemen agreed with my logic.

One lady…many men

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Chardonnay Comes of Age – Tim White FR 2010/11

2 Jan
2011

by Tim White for the Weekend Financial Review, 29 Dec 2010 - 3 Jan 2011

Tenute Cisa Asinari Dei Marchesi di Gresy & Alberto

30 Dec
2010

I consider myself very lucky because life gave me, almost for fun, the chance to live an uncommon ‘agricultural’ experience.” – Alberto Cisa Asinari di Gresy, in Piemonte…noblewoman of wine by Andrea Zanfi

Alberto Cisa Asinari di Gresy by his very lovely Porsche

Photograph by Gio’ Martorana, Piemonte…noblewoman of wine

Today I recalled a beautiful moment after bottling some La Spinetta Ca di Pian 2006 at work one day in 2008, when the cellarmaster Stefano took me to see Martinenga vineyard at the Marchesi di Gresy winery in Barbaresco as we knew Alberto the proprietor would be there to show us around. Stefano used to work there for a great number of years before moving to La Spinetta so it’s not like he needed to be ‘shown around’, but hey, it had been more for my sake anyway. Continue reading

Pure hilarity

24 Dec
2010

http://jamessucklingisadouche.blogspot.com/

Don’t know the guy? Oh, just wait, you’ll GET to know him. And if you didn’t know already, he lives in Tuscany.

Jealous much?

23 Dec
2010

How’s this. A few days ago my mamma Italiana: Ornella Bonifacio from Alba, Piemonte, sent me an email. Within it, she merely wished me a merry christmas, asked when I am next visiting her in Alba, then sent me these photos immediately after…

Spigola with tartufi
Tortelli with tartufi bianchi

Why would she be so cruel? Tis the season of the truffle…and she felt the need to use something…any sort of enticement to get me back!

Apollonia

13 Dec
2010

Apollonia Vitelli-Corleone

My thanks to the old man at Enoteca Sileno today who said I look just like Apollonia Vitelli-Corleone…

…the Sicilian lass in The Godfather who gets blown up in the car…yeah cheers!

Christmas Party

12 Dec
2010

Christmas party so far…great to see a bright ’92 Hill of Grace in the glass.

Balnaves the Tally 2007, Bandol 2008, Hill of Grace 1992, Pizzini Nebbiolo 2003

This was subsequently followed by more delicious offerings (although nothing will beat the highlight of the 1992 Henschke HOG):

2004 Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz

1988 Henschke Hill of Grace (still OK, delicious, but not as good as the 1992. Stiff competition!)

2004 Grant Burge Shadrach Cabernet Sauvignon which was a real surprise for me and fricken unbelievable. Super dark intense fruit, focused drive and persistence, no rough use of oak. Sublime.

2008 Curly Flat Chardonnay, perfectly Macedon, reminds me of the Shadowfax version.

A Greenock Creek Seven Acres Shiraz that was faulty and had to be poured down the gurgler.

2003 Arras Grand Vintage Sparkling. Creamy, biscuity and delightful to start the evening with.

Wine Reviews December

10 Dec
2010

BRESS GOLD CHOOK CHARDONNAY 2008

The Gold Chook theme is Adam Mark’s ode to things made traditionally with artisan care and minimal intervention. I could go into his love for breeding French chickens, but that would just detour us from focusing on this stunning wine. The fruit comes from the Macedon Ranges and so classically you get a tight wine packed full of grapefruit and citrus flavours whilst the lees stirring and subtle use of oak give it a distinct savoury richness. A beautifully made, hand-crafted wine representing some of the best in cool-climate Chardonnay that Victoria has to offer.

BRESS Gold Chook Chardonnay 2008

Macedon Ranges, Victoria


The Gold Chook theme is Adam Mark’s ode to things made traditionally with artisan care and minimal intervention. I could go into his love for breeding French chickens, but that would just detour us from focusing on this stunning wine. The fruit comes from the Macedon Ranges and so classically you get a tight wine packed full of grapefruit and citrus flavours whilst the lees stirring and subtle use of oak give it a distinct savoury richness. A beautifully made, hand-crafted wine representing some of the best in cool-climate Chardonnay that Victoria has to offer.

GALLI ESTATE Artigiano Sangiovese 2008

Heathcote, Victoria

Sangiovese is one of those success-story varieties and has come a long way in Australia. Our vineyards are becoming more mature with each passing vintage and thus producing richer, more flavoursome and structured fruit. Galli Estate have provided a much appreciated hand in improving the standard of Australian Sangiovese for us consumers. Their current 2008 vintage is drinking fabulously with supple cherry compote and plum flavours lying against some chalky tannins. I had it with pappardelle pasta in a rich tomato sugo and a little part of me died and went to heaven. So sit back, relax, and savour the work of the Artigiano!