The importance of Italian grape varieties to the Australian wine industry

“Ask not what your country can do with my grapes, but what my grapes can do for your country.” Err, sure thing, Berlusconi.

An essay submitted for the 2012 Lorenzo Galli Estate Wine Scholarship

By Krystina Menegazzo

WHY AND HOW ARE ITALIAN GRAPE VARIETIES IMPORTANT TO THE AUSTRALIAN WINE INDUSTRY? DISCUSS FOCUSING ON AT LEAST TWO VARIETIES.

INTRODUCTION

The Australian wine industry is undeniably young in comparison to its European counterpart. Australia had the enviable opportunity to experiment and explore the potential of its best vine-growing areas when presented with a blank canvas and lack of red tape. Up until now, our landscape has been dominated by too few varieties that are competing against a saturated global wine market. Fortunately the local wine industry is slowly beginning to pull away the French veil from its eyes, a move that will ensure its future viability. The style and variety of wine today’s consumers are drinking is changing. It is no wonder Australia has seen an increase in imports from countries such as Italy, when our more sophisticated market is crying for food-friendlier wines. Globetrotter, David Gleave MW, believes that the wine market in Australia – and particularly in Melbourne – is the most mature he has experienced. Australian consumers are aware of and happy to trial new grape varieties and styles unlike any other nation in the world[1]. This is where Italian grape varieties planted in the right place and in the right hands can succeed. Responding to this evolving market is key, especially with constant improvements in the scale of Italian grape varieties and clones available for planting. A new platform of appreciation and sophistication is blossoming for more savoury varieties such as pinot grigio, sangiovese, glera, nebbiolo, and the up-and-coming vermentino and nero d’Avola. One hopes this alternative vine movement will be the turning point for the Australian wine industry.

AUSTRALIA’S GRAPE GROWING HISTORY

The French classics of shiraz, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and merlot make up the big four in Australian winemaking[2]. It is an obvious trend given that French, and to a smaller extent, Spanish varieties, made up the bulk of the 433 vines that Australia’s grape pioneer, James Busby, brought over with him from a number of different European nurseries in 1832[3]. Prominent Australian wine figure, James Halliday, supports their dominance, commenting that this reflects, “Their inherent quality, quality recognised in all parts of the wine world”[4]. One must question why Italy was not considered. Was it classified as a vinous backwater at that stage? Were the lack of estates deemed inferior to the grand château of Bordeaux and Burgundy? Were the cultural ties between the aristocracy of England and properties in France, Spain and even the Port houses of Portugal, enough to influence future cuttings? In retrospect, a more pertinent consideration would be whether extensively planting these now dominating grape varieties, in every region, was the right choice when the opportunity existed for more widespread experimentation on the varietal front[5].

In 1979 Walter James prayed that Australian grape growers would, “Taste the spice of adventure, and give us the spice of varieties, which is indeed the greatest joy of wine drinking”[6]. What would our wine industry have evolved into had James Busby, or another great pioneer, François de Castella, included Italian grape varieties at the turning point in Australia’s grape vine development? The 2011 Australian Alternative Varietal Wine Show (AAVWS) demonstrated the success of Italian grapes on Australian soil with positive results seen in vermentino, nero d’avola, montepulciano clones and negroamaro[7]. In most cases, these upcoming Italian varieties are better suited to the climatic conditions than the French classics. In the Riverland, these alternative grapes are proving that huge potential exists for inland grape growing areas and is stimulating a diversification that will be essential to the future success of Australia’s wine industry.

WHY AND HOW ARE ITALIAN GRAPE VARIETIES IMPORTANT TO THE AUSTRALIAN WINE INDUSTRY?

A) RESPONDING TO THE MARKETPLACE

An improved cultural link between food and wine encouraged by a saturation of cooking shows on television as well as lifestyle changes has greatly benefited the wine industry and the uptake of Italian grape varieties. This has been enhanced further by the versatility of these varieties and their obvious link with Italian food. The enthusiasm Australian’s share for European travel has also undeniably impacted the industry as their palates become more curious and adventurous. Ultimately, a more sophisticated marketplace is developing.

Pinot grigio was one of the first Italian white varieties to take off domestically, successfully established as the ‘crucible’ for the variety on the Mornington Peninsula by Kathleen Quealy and Kevin McCarthy[8]. This was the first move away from ‘fruity’ to ‘savoury’ flavour profiles. Pinot grigio filled a market that no longer wanted oaked chardonnay or the aromatically charged sauvignon blanc. It was described as a food wine, and has become so widely planted and popular that it is now deemed a ‘commercial grape’ and no longer features in the AAVWS.

Glera (formerly prosecco) is a high yielding variety and another Italian white grape that is rapidly filling a market once dominated by local brands such as “Yellow” sparkling. Brown Brothers Prosecco is experiencing exponential growth and is a welcome addition as an alternative to standard pinot noir and chardonnay sparkling wines. Marketing initiatives such as ‘Prosecco Road’ have been established by vignerons including Dal Zotto, Brown Brothers and Pizzini to highlight the importance and strength this wine has for the image of the King Valley region[9].

Sangiovese is one of the more dominant Italian red grape varieties, with 5,030 tonnes picked in 2010 Australia-wide[10]. Approachable and affordable styles such as Foster e Rocco’s Nuovo and Greenstone’s Rosso di Colbo are exposing more people to the suitability of this grape variety on Australian soil with its cherry, mineral and food-friendly aspects. These sit comfortably alongside the more serious, age-worthy examples such as Vinea Marson in Heathcote and Coriole’s Vita in McLaren Vale.

Even though geographical areas suitable to the nebbiolo vine are limited and tonnage for the 2010 harvest was comparatively small with 393 tonnes, the prestige that nebbiolo has given to Italian varieties grown in Australia is influential[11]. Our flexibility with a lack of bureaucracy to govern wine styles allows for the final results to be positive and revealing to Australia’s grape growing potential[12].

The importance of food-friendly wines cannot be underestimated. Italian food maintains its strong presence and relationship with Australian consumers and it is only a matter of time before their wine styles build the same level of recognition and credibility. Nowadays the focus amongst the general public has fallen away from drinking the best château. Instead they demand better value wines of drinkability to suit their food[13]. This is where the Italian varieties unquestionably excel. The influx of Italian wine importers in Australia has seen a positive change in the general style of wines currently on shelves and on restaurant lists and works to support the locally grown examples[14]. Responding to the evolving marketplace is of integral importance to the sustainability of a country’s wine industry. In a market dominated by chardonnay, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, Italian varieties are slowly working to add diversity and are gradually redefining our place in the global vinous landscape[15].

B) THE RIGHT VARIETY IN THE RIGHT PLACE

Leading Australian grape growing consultant, Mark Walpole, understands the importance of looking to alternative grapes in the face of climate change. The role these more resilient grapes will play in the future of the Australian wine industry is significant. Trials in Heathcote vineyards have shown negroamaro grapes to have a high resistance to rain, which manage to crop quality fruit at a phenomenal 20t/ha[16]. The Italian clone of vermentino was eventually brought in by Chalmers Nurseries in the late 1990s and suits a variety of landscapes and produces racy whites from inland Australia to the King Valley[17]. Its thick skins are tolerant to many wet weather diseases and it maintains a low alcohol even in warm climates with more emphasis on texture, acidity and drinkability at play[18].

The progress with these Italian grape varieties on Australian soil can be largely attributed to the avant-garde thinking and innovative viticultural direction of Mark Walpole, Alberto Antonini, Dr Rod Bonfiglioli and Bruce Chalmers. Their collaboration initiated an importation project allowing them access to a plethora of European grape vine varieties and clones[19]. The current path to diversification has seen new plantings by Chalmers with nero d’Avola, vermentino, fiano, greco, sagrantino, lagrein, sangiovese, negroamaro and aglianico claiming vineyard space at their Heathcote property. As Jane Faulkner commented in her recent article ‘All rows lead to Rome’, it is vineyard sites such as this that represent the future for Australian wine[20]. Further north, the Riverland Vine Improvement Committee and the surrounding wineries are taking risks and exploring new opportunities. Salena Estate’s Bianco d’Alessano in the 2010 AAVWS was key in demonstrating that the warmer inland areas are capable of more than just bulk wine[21].

Even the cooler climates of Australia are attracting a collection of Italian grape varieties that continue to highlight their suitability to our landscape and importance to the market. Doctor Brian Freeman has Rondinella and Corvina plantings in the cool, elevated slopes of the Hilltops region, noting the wines’ success pertaining to the movement of knowledgeable Australian wine drinkers developing a more savoury palate. He believes the home-grown Italian varieties will nurture this consumer curiosity for savoury, food-compatible wines[22].

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